Biscochitos

Biscochitos (sometimes spelled bizcochitos) are a short-bread-type cookie originating from New Mexico in the southwestern United States. The lard-based dough is flavored with anise and brandy, and the cookies are rolled in cinnamon sugar after baking, resulting in a buttery, spiced sweet. Traditionally, the cookies are cut into the shape of the fleur-de-lis, though stars and circles are also common.

This humble dessert reflects the state’s long and complex history. While the recipe is likely an adaptation of the Spanish mantecado (another sort of lard-based Christmas cookie, though the texture is quite distinct from the biscochito) brought by conquistadors in the 17th century, the traditional fleur-de-lis shape seems to reference the French influence in the region that emerged when Spain came under the rule of the French House of Bourbon in 1700, leading to French clergy members and fur trappers coming to New Mexico.

While New Mexican Catholics may occasionally bring these cookies to religious celebrations such as weddings and baptisms, they are more commonly associated with the Christmas season. During the month of December they are sold in cafes and bakeries around the state, and many families (regardless of religious affiliation) have their own recipes. Unlike the majority of American cuisine, which is ubiquitous throughout the country, biscochitos are rarely (if ever) found outside of New Mexico, and are treated as a special symbol of New Mexican heritage.

For more information and a recipe, see:

Jamison, Cheryl Alters. “The Cookie Different.” New Mexico Magazine. December 2015. https://www.newmexicomagazine.org/blog/post/tasting-nm-94030/.